UNDERCOVER FW23 Pays Tribute to Musical Legends

Jun Takahashi‘s UNDERCOVER recently returned to Paris Fashion Week to deliver an all-new collection that recalls Takahashi’s eventful youth. As someone in tune with the now, the designer often provides sentimental offerings that touch on current global affairs. However, for Fall/Winter 2023, the Japanese legend chose to take a positive route reflecting his unbreakable fascination with music throughout childhood.

As two of his favorite musical compounds, Takahashi highlighted Coventry-born two-toned band The Specials and German composer Manuel Göttsching. FRGMT’s Hiroshi Fujiwara brought their sounds together for a dynamic soundtrack that instructed UNDERCOVER’s womenswear runway alongside a petite collaboration with the designer.

The range began with an assortment of metallic suits embroidered with eerie hands and roses inspired by The Specials’ 1980s success. Floral-covered fleece jackets, nylon trench coats, and graphic knitwear followed, some encrusted with the group’s song lyrics “Enjoy yourself, it’s later than you think/Enjoy yourself, while you’re still in the pink” combined with visuals from Göttsching’s ‘E2-E4’ album cover. In addition, mutual musical motifs were previewed on beige and brown checkered outerwear, adorned with names, logos, and collaborative FRGMT branding.

Elsewhere, down-filled capes revealed ribbed indentations on its interior, while the outer layer was kept majestically smooth. Additional variations featured asymmetrical collars and zippers matched with glittered woven bottoms and glossy thigh-high boots. Silk hoodies walked the runway with sinister energy, boasting swaddling headcovers that folded across the ribcage. Finally, illustrative outerwear was fashioned with child-like drawings that read “NO EXIT,” “CHAOS,” and “I’m not okay,” reflecting Takahashi’s thoughtful approach to design.

Take a closer look at UNDERCOVER’s FW23 collection in the gallery above.

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