Jonathan Anderson Serves Up a Recipe for Reduction at LOEWE FW23

As one of fashion week’s most interesting showcases, all eyes were on Loewe ahead of the Fall/Winter 2023 season.

Following on from last season’s show, which facilitated the debut of the deflated balloon pumps and pixelated T-shirts, Loewe’s FW23 was decidedly more subtle. An evolution of SS23, the collection continued to blur the lines between the physical and the digital, showcasing images of garments as the garment itself alongside literally blurred pixel prints and seemingly sticker-like references.

The collection’s color palette featured a base layer of black, brown, camel and white, punctuated by vibrant accents of red and pops of pastel hues. Experimentation arrived in the form of fabric and texture, utilizing leather, satin, cashmere and velvet alongside feathers, crystals and leather. Elsewhere, the showcase found itself toying with the “tension between focus and out of focus,” evidenced through ghostly movements and focused silhouettes.

Footwear once again became a focal point of the collection, comprising “collapsing” leather boots, round-toed boots and pumps with oversized bows, however still offering a slightly more subdued approach in comparison to previous iterations. Alongside footwear, Loewe’s FW23 debuted the new Squeeze Bag, crafted from smooth buttery leather and complete with a puffy handle and donut chain detail. The showcase also saw oversized Puzzle Totes and Paseo Bags paraded down the runway, exploring the duality of reduction.