UNDERCOVER Pre-Spring 2026 Plots a Refined Western Noir
For Pre-Fall 2025, Jun Takahashi‘s UNDERCOVER proposed a revival of Mod style, evoking 90s rock subculture and British counterculture. This time, with a toned-down palette focused on grayscale and dry earth tones, the Japanese designer evokes a cinematic fusion of Western, grunge, and tailored sensibilities for its Pre-Spring 2026 collection.
Departing from the neon-tinged hues, florals, and jeweled trims of UNDERCOVER’s Fall 2025 line, Pre-Spring 2026 is a rather quiet statement. Sophisticated Montana-style hats are the binding thread, present through diverse looks combining tailored sets, vintage bohemian sensibilities, and contemporary streetwear staples, signature to the label.
Like the Pre-Fall 2025 campaign, the looks begin with elevated styles, including a deconstructed black two-piece with an exposed white lining and a dark brown pinstriped camp shirt and shorts set. A particularly elegant moment arrives with a stark white suit in lightweight fabric and styled with a white pinstripe shirt. Later, a solid brown shirt jacket combines military and heritage influences with a chino-collar, Asian knot buttons, and utilitarian patch pockets.
High-water trouser inseams and roomy continue as the looks become more casual and Jun Takahashi’s edgy ethos comes to the fore. An indigo trucker jacket is emblazoned with various patches, a typographic motif reads “I hear more than you can hear,” bold touches of primary red and deep purple add contemporaneity to the collection. A haphazardly written “I am chaos” graphic is a recurring theme, embroidered on the toebox of flat-soled loafers and an oversized brown t-shirt. The lookbook closes with the boldest print of the collection — a modern gridded camouflage, applied to a liner jacket silhouette and shorts covered with cargo pockets.
See the gallery above for a full look at UNDERCOVER’s Pre-Spring 2026 Collection.
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